Status: Primary tourist hub of the Caribbean coast

Key Characteristics:

• Laid-back surfer town with reggae beats and pura vida lifestyle
• Growing tourism infrastructure with restaurants, hotels, and tour operators
• Hub for adventure seekers, yogis, and travelers
• Home to numerous small tourist agencies offering boat trips, deep-sea fishing, and coastal excursions

Things to Do:

• Surfing at Playa Cocles (beginner to intermediate breaks)
• Snorkeling at Punta Uva Arrecife (Grape Point Reef) – accessible directly from the beach
• Explore colorful reef fish, puffer fish, and marine life
• Visit local restaurants offering Mediterranean, seafood, and vegan options
• Day trips to nearby beaches and national parks
• Jaguar Rescue Center visits

Dining & Recreation:

• Italian restaurants at Playa Cocles
• Argentinian grills with gluten-free options
• Mediterranean and Central American cuisine
• Vegan and vegetarian establishments

Population & Vibe: Puerto Viejo (often just “Puerto Viejo”) is a lively coastal town in southeastern Costa Rica, known for its relaxed, bohemian atmosphere. It’s the main tourist hub of Talamanca canton, yet it remains a small town – part of the Cahuita district which had only 8,293 residents in 2011 (likely a few thousand live in Puerto Viejo itself). Don’t let the size fool you – this melting pot community blends native Ticos with a large Afro-Caribbean population (descendants of Jamaican workers) and expats from Europe. The town’s very nickname, “Wolaba,” reflects local Creole slang. In fact, Puerto Viejo was originally called Old Harbour until names were hispanized (e.g. Old Harbour became Puerto Viejo). This unique heritage gives Puerto Viejo its distinct Caribbean soul – you’ll hear reggae music wafting from colorful roadside bars, and you might catch locals speaking Patwa (Creole English) alongside Spanish. It’s a warm, welcoming beach town where “Pura Vida” meets “Irie” vibes.

Interesting Facts: Puerto Viejo is famed in the surfing world for Salsa Brava, the biggest and most powerful wave in Costa Rica. Surfers flock here to challenge this legendary reef break, and during peak swells (December–March) you can watch them riding giants offshore. The town is also surrounded by spectacular beaches – from the volcanic black sands of Playa Negra to the golden arc of Punta Uva – which consistently rank among Costa Rica’s most beautiful. Just outside town is the Jaguar Rescue Center, a renowned wildlife rehabilitation center where you can meet monkeys, sloths, and other creatures up close. Culturally, Puerto Viejo hosts the annual Wolaba Parade each August, a vibrant celebration of Afro-Caribbean heritage with music and dance (scheduled for August 23, 2025). And here’s a bit of trivia: the area around Puerto Viejo is one of the few places in Costa Rica where the Bribri indigenous people still reside in the nearby hills, occasionally coming to town to sell cacao crafts or lead chocolate-making tours.

Things to Do: There’s no shortage of activities in and around Puerto Viejo. Top highlights include:

• Surfing at Salsa Brava or the friendlier beach breaks of Playa Cocles (less experienced surfers can take lessons here). Puerto Viejo’s consistent waves make it a year-round surf destination.
• Beach hopping by bicycle – rent a bike and cruise the flat coastal road south to visit Playa Chiquita, Playa Cocles, and Punta Uva, each with its own charm.
• Wildlife watching – Tour the Jaguar Rescue Center to see rescued sloths, monkeys, and jungle cats being rehabilitated. Howler monkeys are wild in the area too – you’ll likely wake to their calls echoing from the rainforest at dawn. Guided night walks or visits to the nearby Gandoca-Manzanillo Refuge can reveal frogs, toucans, and other fauna.
• Snorkeling and Diving – When seas are calm (typically September/October), explore the coral reefs in Cahuita National Park to the north or at Manzanillo’s reefs to the south for tropical fish and even manatees (yes, manatees still live in these waters!).
• Cultural food & nightlife – By day, sample Caribbean specialties like Rice ‘n Beans (cooked in coconut milk) and rondón stew at local sodas. By night, dance to reggae and calypso at spots like Texxo’s Bar or enjoy live calypso music – Puerto Viejo’s late resident Walter “Gavitt” Ferguson, the King of Calypso, put this music on the map (his 100th birthday was declared National Calypso Day in Costa Rica).

Local Leadership & News: Puerto Viejo is part of Talamanca municipality, whose leaders have been proactive in balancing development and conservation. In 2012, a conflict arose over old Maritime Zone laws that threatened to evict many seafront homes and businesses. Costa Rica’s Vice President even visited to show support for villagers in nearby Manzanillo whose properties were at risk. Thanks to community activism and government intervention, a 2014 law adjusted the boundaries of the wildlife refuge and protected existing coastal towns from demolition. This was a big win for locals and highlights how community voices shape the area’s future.

Safety has also been a community focus. Puerto Viejo’s residents fund a volunteer lifeguard program – the only one in the region – with rotating lifeguards watching popular beaches like Cocles, especially after a spate of drownings years ago. (A July 2025 incident at an unguarded beach sadly underscored this need, when actor Malcolm-Jamal Warner drowned at Playa Grande. The community responded by raising awareness on water safety and bolstering lifeguard efforts.) On a brighter note, tourism to Puerto Viejo is booming again. Limón Province was just ranked the “trendiest” destination for international travelers, who crave its uncrowded beaches, “island” culture, and natural beauty. Puerto Viejo, with its surf-centric, laid-back vibe, is often the perfect home base for exploring the Caribbean coast.

Places to Visit: Within Puerto Viejo, stroll the village center with its surfer shops, art galleries, and the iconic Casa de la Cultura mural. Just outside town, don’t miss: Playa Negra, right on the north edge of town, known for its unusual black sand and mellow surf; Finca La Isla botanical garden for chocolate tours and exotic fruit tasting; and Waterfall hikes up in Bribri territory (a short drive inland) for a refreshing dip. And if you’re feeling adventurous, Puerto Viejo is also a gateway to Bocas del Toro, Panama – daily shuttles and boats can get you from “Old Harbour” to the islands in a few hours, a popular visa-run or side trip for many visitors. Whether you stay put or roam, Puerto Viejo’s mix of surf, sand, culture, and community will capture your heart.