Status: End of the road; least developed and most authentic
Population & Character:
- Southernmost coastal town
- Maintains the most traditional, unchanged character of the region
- Fewer tourism facilities but authentic Caribbean experience
- Popular with travelers seeking genuine pura vida
Main Attractions:
- Gandoca-Manzanillo National Wildlife Refuge (45 sq km / 18 sq miles)
- 10-kilometer stretch of pristine beach
- Mangrove ecosystems
- Guided and self-guided hiking trails
- Bird-watching opportunities
- Government-protected natural area open to public
Activities:
- Hiking in the wildlife refuge
- Bird-watching expeditions
- Snorkeling (impressive shallow reef)
- Diving opportunities
- Authentic beach village experience
- Day trips from Puerto Viejo
Population & Lifestyle: At the far southeastern end of Costa Rica’s Caribbean road lies Manzanillo, a tiny fishing village where the pavement literally ends and untamed nature begins. Manzanillo (often called Puerto Manzanillo) has a population of only a few hundred people – it’s the very definition of a sleepy seaside village. The town is nestled along a stunning crescent of white sand beach backed by coconut palms and almond trees. The pace of life is ultra-relaxed: children play soccer on the beach, fishermen mend nets in the afternoons, and neighbors gather on porches to chat over coffee. It hasn’t experienced the tourism boom of Puerto Viejo, so Manzanillo retains an old Caribbean charm. Time seems to stretch here; even cell phone signal is spotty – a sign you’ve reached the tranquil “end of the road”. Culturally, most locals are Afro-Caribbean, many related to the original families who settled here. The vibe is very friendly and community-oriented. Don’t be surprised if people wave and say hello as you wander through the few sandy lanes that make up Manzanillo.
Interesting Facts: Manzanillo sits adjacent to the Gandoca-Manzanillo National Wildlife Refuge, a vast protected area that begins at the edge of town and extends to the Panamanian border. In fact, Manzanillo is literally surrounded on three sides by protected land and sea. This refuge is famous for its biodiversity – it’s one of the last places in Costa Rica where West Indian manatees still live (in the mangrove lagoons of Gandoca), and it protects key habitats for dolphins, sea turtles, crocodiles, and many bird species. The refuge was renamed in 2013 to honor Jairo Mora Sandoval, a young turtle conservationist tragically killed by poachers on a nearby beach; his legacy lives on in heightened conservation awareness.
Manzanillo’s beach is considered one of the most beautiful on the Caribbean coast – powdery golden sand and calm, reef-sheltered waters perfect for swimming and snorkeling. At the southeastern end of the beach, you’ll see a craggy outcrop known as Punta Manzanillo, offering picturesque views. Local legend has it that the name Manzanillo (“little apple”) comes from the Manchineel trees (manzanillo in Spanish) that grow in the area – these are poisonous beach apple trees once common here (indeed caution is advised not to touch their sap).
A fun bit of trivia: On October 14, 2023, Manzanillo was one of the best spots in Costa Rica to view the annular solar eclipse – locals and visitors gathered on the beach with eclipse glasses to watch the “ring of fire” in the sky. Some spectacular photos of the eclipse phases over Manzanillo went viral among astronomy enthusiasts.
Day to day, fishing remains integral to Manzanillo’s economy. You’ll see colorful wooden boats (often with names like “Doña Maria” or “El Tiburón”) pulled up on the sand – local fishermen catch snapper, lobster, and crabs which end up on dinner plates in town. If you have a meal in Manzanillo, chances are the seafood was swimming that same morning!
Things to Do: Despite (or because of) its off-the-beaten-path nature, Manzanillo offers rich experiences for nature lovers and those seeking authentic local culture:
- Snorkeling & Kayaking: The coral reefs off Manzanillo are vibrant and shallow. You can snorkel straight from the beach around the point and see brain corals, fan corals, parrotfish, angelfish, and if lucky, even a sea turtle. The best time is February to April or September/October when seas are clearest. Local guides like Tino offer inexpensive snorkeling tours by boat to the best spots. Alternatively, rent a kayak to paddle the calm bay – you might spot stingrays gliding beneath you in the crystal water.
- Hiking in the Wildlife Refuge: From the beach, a trail leads into the Gandoca-Manzanillo Refuge heading south along the coast. This adventurous hike takes you through dense rainforest and along isolated coves (like the picturesque Playa Punta Mona). It’s about 5 km to Punta Mona, where there’s an ecological farm. Along the way, keep your eyes peeled for wildlife: howler monkeys, toucans, poison dart frogs, and more. One highlight is La Piscina, a natural tide pool cove about 1.5 km in, where you can take a refreshing dip (its name means “the pool”). Do note the trail can be muddy and is best done with a guide or if you’re an experienced hiker – but it’s a true wilderness experience.
- Gandoca Lagoon & Turtle Tours: A bit further afield (accessible by 4×4 or boat) is Gandoca, at the very end of the refuge near Panama. From Manzanillo you can arrange a tour to Gandoca Lagoon, where you might see manatees (very elusive) or at least their favorite aquatic plants, plus caimans and river turtles. If visiting in turtle nesting season (March–July for leatherbacks), guided night tours to Gandoca Beach are offered to witness giant leatherback turtles nesting – an unforgettable spectacle. The refuge’s beaches host nesting leatherbacks, hawksbill, and green sea turtles.
- Cultural Immersion: Spend time in the village itself. Chat with local artisans who sometimes set up small tables by the beach selling carved calabash bowls or coconut jewelry. The Maxi’s Bar & Restaurant is an institution – grab a picnic table with an ocean view and order their renowned rondón, a hearty seafood coconut stew, or the fresh grilled lobster when in season. You’re likely to hear some old Calypso tunes on the speakers. On weekends, local families flock to Manzanillo Beach for picnics, especially Sunday afternoons – it’s a joyous scene of kids playing in the shallows and multi-generational families relaxing. As a visitor, you’ll feel welcomed to soak up this authentic Caribbean family atmosphere.
- Birdwatching: The Manzanillo area is a birdwatcher’s paradise. Consider an early morning bird tour – within minutes you can spot keel-billed toucans, Montezuma oropendolas, snowy egrets (often stalking the shoreline)【52†image】, and perhaps rare sightings like trogons or even the great green macaw (which occasionally ventures down the coast). The forest edges at dawn are alive with birdsong, making a guided bird walk very rewarding for nature enthusiasts.
Local Leadership & Community: Manzanillo is a community-run town in many ways. There’s a local committee (Consejo Municipal Distrital) that liaises with Talamanca Municipality on needs like road maintenance and trash collection. Residents have a strong voice in protecting their environment. They were instrumental in the fight against the 2012 maritime zoning evictions – it was the Manzanillo villagers’ protest and meeting with the Vice President that helped prompt the government to legalize their homes and adjust the refuge boundaries. This action in 2014 formally removed Manzanillo village from the wildlife refuge (it had technically been inside the refuge zone) so that people could hold title to their land without fear. It was a major victory for the community and showed how passionate they are about their hometown.
In recent news, there’s been a push to improve infrastructure without spoiling Manzanillo’s charm. Electricity and internet were upgraded in 2021, allowing the local school to have better resources. However, locals have mixed feelings about any large development. The general consensus: they want to keep Manzanillo low-key and eco-friendly. As tourism slowly grows, there are community guidelines now for new guesthouses – encouraging use of traditional architectural style (wooden structures on stilts, for example) and limiting cutting of trees. The community also rallies for beach cleanups and reef protection. A local youth group called Jóvenes por Manzanillo started a coral replanting project in 2022, reattaching broken corals to help the reef recover from past storm damage – a wonderful grassroots conservation effort.
Perhaps the best indication of Manzanillo’s community spirit is during the annual Dia del Negro y la Cultura Afrocostarricense (Black People and Afro-Costa Rican Culture Day) every August 31st. Manzanillo, like Cahuita and Limón, celebrates with cultural events – in 2024, they held a small parade down the dusty main road, with school kids drumming and elders cooking up coconut rice for everyone. It’s humble and heartwarming, and it shows that while Manzanillo may be small, its cultural pride is enormous.
Places to Visit: Around Manzanillo, points of interest include:
- Punta Manzanillo Overlook: A short path at the edge of town (behind Maxi’s) goes up to a bluff with a scenic overlook. There’s a bench where you can sit and admire the panoramic view of the bay, especially lovely at sunrise.
- Old Wharf Pillars: If you wade into the water by the village, you might notice some old concrete pillars beneath the surface. These are remnants of an old banana boat dock from early 20th century when small ships would collect produce here. Now they serve as artificial reef habitat for fish – a little historical curiosity under the waves.
- Cabinas Manzanillo Gardens: One of the local guesthouses has a beautifully tended tropical garden often open to visitors for a stroll – basically a mini botanical garden with labelled fruit trees and medicinal plants. It’s a nice way to learn about coconuts, breadfruit, noni, and other Caribbean plants.
- Playa Grande: If you crave more beach, you can walk (or drive a rugged road) about 2 km north to Playa Grande, a huge and mostly empty beach. It’s gorgeous but beware, it has stronger currents and no facilities (this is where the unfortunate drowning occurred. Still, for a contemplative walk on a deserted shore, it’s unbeatable. It’s also a nesting site for turtles (hence off-limits at night in season without a guide).
In Manzanillo, the motto could well be “tranquilidad ante todo” – tranquility above all. It’s a place to unplug and reconnect with nature and community. Standing on the beach with the jungle behind you and the vast Caribbean Sea ahead, you feel like you’ve reached a special frontier – the end of the road and the beginning of pura vida in its purest form.